How to Drink French Fluently

RULES OF THE BRUNCH DRINK 


GIVE THE PEOPLE WHAT THEY WANT. The most persistent brunch-cocktail categories are popular for a reason: they work. There’s certainly room for creativity on the service side of the brunch bar, but working within the parameters of classic brunch drinks is a wise move. “No one wants to get into experimental drinks in the middle of the day,” says Xavier Herit of New York’s Wallflower. 

BRUNCH DRINKING = SESSION DRINKING. The leisurely pace of brunch usually means multiple rounds are in order. “You’d like people to have two, three drinks and enjoy—not have one and be done,” says Lynnette Marrero of Brooklyn’s Llama Inn. “You want to have sessionable drinks on the brunch menu.” 

PUT REFRESHMENT FIRST. Daytime cocktails can certainly pack a kick, but their blow should be tempered with the most versatile tools available to brunch bartenders, fresh in-season fruit and bubbles among them. “There’s a desire to not have these heavy, clunky drinks anymore. Citrusy, refreshing, sparkling cocktails tend to be very good at that time of day,” says Marrero. 

DON’T EXPECT A CURE. It makes sense that many brunch enthusiasts are in the market for liquid relief. Don’t get too wrapped up in this. “We just make a good drink, and try not to assign any sort of mythological healing properties to it,” says Jeffrey Morgenthaler of Portland’s Clyde Common. 




SAN PANCHO 

“MANZANILLA AND STRAWBERRIES ARE very good friends,” explains Caitlin Laman, a recent Mexico City transplant by way of San Francisco’s Trick Dog, who combines the two for her south-of-the-border spin on a simple Collins. Named after the Mexican moniker for San Francisco, CA (a common place-name in Mexico), the San Pancho swaps the typical gin base for manzanilla sherry to better balance the floral notes of St-Germain. Made tall with a measure of soda water, the San Pancho is designed for all-day drinking. 

1½ ounces manzanilla sherry, preferably La Cigarrera 
¾ ounce London dry gin 
¾ ounce St-Germain 
½ ounce strawberry syrup 
¾ ounce lemon juice 
1½ ounces soda water 

GARNISH Lemon wheel, strawberry fan, and mint sprig 

METHOD Shake all of the ingredients except the soda water with ice. Double strain into a Collins glass. Add ice, top with the soda water, and stir quickly. Garnish with the lemon wheel, strawberry fan, and mint sprig.